Battery health: the most important check
Battery state of health (SOH) is the single most important number on a used EV. It tells you what percentage of the original capacity remains. A car with 90% SOH and a 64 kWh battery effectively has 57.6 kWh available, which directly sets your real-world range.
How to get the number depends on the brand. On a Nissan Leaf, count the battery capacity bars on the dashboard (12 bars = 100%, 10 bars = roughly 85%) or use the LeafSpy app with an OBD2 dongle for a precise reading. Tesla shows degradation data in the app. Hyundai, Kia and most others display it in the infotainment system or can provide a dealer battery health certificate.
What's normal? After five to six years, 85 to 92% SOH is typical for a liquid-cooled battery (most modern EVs). Air-cooled cars like the Nissan Leaf may show 78 to 88% depending on climate and rapid charging history. Below 75% SOH, expect noticeably reduced range and possible difficulty reselling. See how much battery degradation is normal for the full picture.
Warranty: what transfers and what doesn't
Most EV battery warranties transfer automatically to the second owner. The warranty clock starts from the car's original registration date, not your purchase date. So a 2020 car with an eight-year warranty has coverage until 2028 regardless of how many owners it has had.
The standard across most manufacturers is 8 years or 100,000 miles, guaranteeing at least 70% SOH. Hyundai and Kia offer a class-leading 10 years. MG offers 7 years but with only 80,000 miles. Check the specific terms in our EV battery warranty guide . The differences matter when you're buying a car that's already several years old.
The vehicle warranty (covering everything except the battery) is separate and may not transfer. Some manufacturers offer it; others don't. Check before you buy, and consider an aftermarket warranty for older cars.
Rapid charging history
A car that spent its life as a taxi or private hire vehicle may have been rapid charged hundreds of times. Frequent DC rapid charging at 50 kW or above generates more heat in the battery than slow home charging, and over time this speeds up degradation, especially in air-cooled cars.
You can't always see this in the service history, but some cars record the ratio of AC to DC charging sessions. On Teslas, the Supercharger count is visible in the app. For other brands, ask the seller about typical charging habits. A car that was primarily home charged on a 7 kW wallbox is a better bet for long-term battery health than one that was rapid charged daily.
Charging compatibility: check before you buy
Not all EVs charge at the same speed, and the connector type matters. Most modern EVs sold in the UK use CCS (Combined Charging System) for rapid charging. Older Nissan Leafs and some early Kia and Hyundai models use CHAdeMO, which is being phased out at many public chargers. The Renault Zoe uses a Type 2 connector for both AC and DC.
For home charging, almost all EVs accept 7 kW AC through a Type 2 connector, which is the UK standard. But check the car's maximum AC charging speed. Some budget models are capped at 3.6 kW or 6.6 kW on AC, meaning a 7 kW home charger won't deliver its full speed. See our home charging guide for the full setup picture.
Service history and MOT
EVs have far fewer moving parts than petrol cars, so there's less to go wrong mechanically. But they still need servicing: brake fluid, cabin filters, coolant (on liquid-cooled models), and software updates. A full service history from a franchised or reputable independent dealer is a good sign. Gaps in service history should make you cautious, just as with any used car.
Check the MOT history online at gov.uk. EVs still need an MOT from three years old. Look for advisories on suspension, tyres and brakes. Brake disc corrosion is common on EVs because regenerative braking means the physical brakes barely get used. It's cosmetic in most cases but worth a look.
Tyres: a hidden cost
EVs are heavier than equivalent petrol cars and deliver instant torque, which wears tyres faster. Many EVs use specific low-rolling-resistance tyres that cost more to replace. Check the tread depth and age of the current tyres, and factor replacement cost into your budget. A set of four EV-specific tyres typically costs £400 to £800 depending on size.
The 12V battery
Every EV has a small 12V battery that powers everything else: lights, door locks, the computer that wakes up the main battery. When this dies, the car won't start, even with a fully charged main battery. It's a common failure point, especially on cars over four years old. Ask when it was last replaced or check the voltage. Replacement costs £100 to £250.
What to check on the test drive
Drive the car at a range of speeds: town, A-road and motorway if possible. Note the displayed efficiency (mi/kWh) and compare it to what you'd expect from our real-world efficiency data. A car showing much worse efficiency than expected may have a battery or drivetrain problem.
Check that regenerative braking works smoothly across all settings. Listen for unusual noises from the motor or suspension. EVs are quiet, so problems that would be masked by engine noise on a petrol car are easier to spot. Test the heater and air conditioning, which are the biggest auxiliary power draws. And verify that the charging port opens, the cable locks properly, and charging actually initiates if you can access a charger.
Cables and accessories
A used EV should come with at least one charging cable. Usually that's a Type 2 to Type 2 for public AC chargers or home wallboxes. Some also include a three-pin granny cable for emergency charging from a domestic socket. If either is missing, budget £150 to £300 for a replacement. Check that any included cables are in good condition with no damage to the insulation or connectors.
Quick reference checklist
Before you sign: get a battery SOH reading, check the remaining warranty period and whether it transfers, ask about rapid charging history, verify the connector type suits your charging setup, review the full service and MOT history, inspect tyres for wear and age, check the 12V battery, test drive at multiple speeds, and confirm all cables are included. If the seller can't provide an SOH reading, treat that as a red flag.