Why WLTP range doesn't match real life
WLTP is a lab test done at moderate speeds and comfortable temperatures. It helps you compare cars fairly, but it was never designed to predict how far you'll actually drive on a cold Tuesday in February.
Your real driving range depends on four main factors the lab test doesn't fully consider: how fast you drive, the outside temperature, how much you use heating or cooling, and how old the battery is. HonestRange calculates each of these from the ground up, instead of just taking a set percentage off the WLTP number. Check out the real vs WLTP range gap data to see how much the difference can be for different models.
The physics: speed, drag and mass
When you drive, the motor has to fight two main forces: aerodynamic drag, which gets much stronger as you go faster, and rolling resistance, which stays about the same. At 30 mph, rolling resistance matters most, but at 70 mph, aerodynamic drag is much bigger. That's why you get fewer miles on the motorway than in town. It's simply how physics works.
Weight is important too, especially if you drive on hilly roads. Heavier cars use more energy to go uphill, and while regenerative braking helps on the way down, it doesn't get all that energy back. Our model takes into account each car's weight, drag, and size. You can find the full equations on the methodology page.
EV winter range: how much do you lose in the cold?
Most electric cars lose between 15 and 30 percent of their range in winter. A car with a WLTP range of 300 miles might manage 210 to 255 miles on a cold day, depending on the temperature, whether it has a heat pump, and how much motorway driving you do.
Cold weather affects your range in two ways. First, cold air is denser, so your car faces more aerodynamic drag at any speed. Second, using the cabin heater takes power from the battery that could have been used for driving.
A standard resistive heater can draw 2 to 4 kW continuously, while a heat pump does the same job using roughly half as much energy when it's warmer than -5°C. That's why our heat pump comparison shows that cars with heat pumps do noticeably better in winter. Check how much range EVs lose in winter for model-by-model figures.
Battery degradation and state of health
All EV batteries lose some capacity as they age. For example, a battery that started with 60 kWh might only hold 54 kWh after five years, so the maximum range drops too. Liquid-cooled batteries usually lose a few percent each year, while air-cooled ones, like in the early Nissan Leaf, lose more.
Our model works out battery health based on the car's age and mileage, using a curve that matches each battery type and cooling system. You can enter your car's age and mileage on any car page to see your real range. For more details, check out how much battery degradation is normal. If you're looking at a used Leaf specifically, read is a used Nissan Leaf battery still any good — air-cooled packs degrade differently to liquid-cooled ones.
Motorway vs. town: the practical gap
Since aerodynamic drag increases quickly as you go faster, it takes about twice as much energy to keep 70 mph as it does to keep 50 mph, just from drag. If you have a headwind, it's even harder. On every car page, you'll see separate range estimates for mild weather, winter, and motorway driving, instead of just one number. For a real example, see how far an EV can go on the motorway, or check our EV road trip guide for tips on long journeys.
What you can control
You can't change the laws of physics, but you can work with them. If you preheat your car while it's still plugged in, you use electricity from the grid instead of your battery. Driving at 60 mph instead of 70 on the motorway can give you more miles. Picking a car with the right shape and weight for your driving habits is often better than just looking for the biggest battery. Use our model comparison to see which cars perform best in your real-world conditions.